Spiti: A Magical Kaliedoscope!

If you ever get the chance, go alone. Walk alone, travel alone, live alone, dance alone. Just for a while. If you ever get the chance, learn who you are when the world isn't demanding you be one way or another..." ~Brianna Wiest

From taking the leap of faith and travelling with the clouds, sun, wind and sky, walking alone on less- travelled roads and smiling in the company of trees, dancing under millions of stars, watching the milky way, embracing the early morning sunshine, dipping into the unknown waters, to learning different ways of living, delving into the essence of sustainability, trusting new people and immersing in the real stories of joy, peace, tears, struggle, courage and change, the journey to Spiti was one of the most mesmerizing and transformational ones at many different levels.

I deeply thank Ishita Khanna, Founder and the Team of Ecosphere (https://spitiecosphere.com/) along with the amazing co- travelers for making this conscious, low- carbon yet one of the most beautiful travel experiences possible. To be able to know more and see its diverse initiatives ranging from solar projects to that of ensuring livelihoods and community health and wellbeing, for fostering sustainability and equity in a place as remote as Spiti, was a delight and an inspiration to learn and work for touching newer heights. 

Now let's embark on this transformative journey together...

Day 0: Manali

With wonder in eyes, uncertainty within heart, and adventure in soul, the trip began with travelling from Delhi to Manali. As the night passed, my eyes opened to the stunning view of mountains, greenery and the flowing Beas river. After reaching Manali, I navigated my way to an uphill yet amazingly peaceful and warm homestay in Chichoga, and started with the exploration. Although Manali, with its diverse attractions and scenic beauty, offers a multitude of experiences to cherish, here's a glimpse of my day in Manali, filled with exploration, cultural immersion, and the beauty of nature.



The day started off by strolling along the vibrant Mall Road, the heart of Manali. I got the opportunity to browse through the unique collection of tribal handicrafts from across India, including intricate embroidery, colorful textiles, and exquisite accessories. It was beautiful to see how engaging with the local craftsmanship not only supports the community but also allows us to bring home a piece of a place with us.

Then I made my way to the enchanting village of Vashisht, located just a short distance from Manali, and visited the ancient Vashisht Temple, dedicated to the sage Vashisht and known for its architectural beauty. The natural sulphurous hot springs nearby, is also believed to have therapeutic properties and embracing the healing warmth of the waters and serenity of the surroundings was a beautiful experience.

Further, I visited the Tibetan Monastery in Manali. The monastery, adorned with colorful prayer flags and intricate artwork, offered a peaceful ambiance for meditation and contemplation. This was followed by a leisurely walk through Van Vihar, a nature park located near the Mall Road. The park is a serene oasis with lush greenery, swings, towering deodar trees, and a serene lake. Swinging through the rain, and finding a quiet spot to sit and soak in the natural beauty was the highlight of the day.



Then, I headed to Old Manali, and sat at the River Music Cafe, located alongside the gushing Beas River for the rest of the evening. I made my way back through the trails of Nature Park, was struck by the beauty and serenity of Manali's landscapes as I reflected upon the experiences of the day and after crossing the river, forests, woods, city road, rough steep paths amidst the rain, I finally reached the stay. 

In all, travelling on foot from Chichoga to New Manali to Old Manali and back, revealed the true essence of Manali, and I learnt how important it is to embrace the solitude and the risks involved, for it is in these moments of exploration that one finds the most rewarding experiences, the most valuable lessons, and the memories that will last a lifetime. 


Day 1: Manali- Kaza

This was the day when I met the group of co- travelers for the Spiti Program of Ecosphere, and we embarked together on the journey from Manali to Kaza. As the road unfolded before me, it was revealing a tapestry of sights and changing landscapes ranging from lush greens to barren browns, painted a picture of contrasting elements coming together in harmony. As the views got magnificent, the roads got rugged and bumpier. Towering snow-capped peaks stood proudly, their majestic yet lonely presence reminding me of the immense power, resilience and art of nature. As the wheels rolled over the uneven path, I embraced unpredictability. The bumpy road reminded me to appreciate the small victories and savor every moment, knowing that the challenges were merely stepping stones on the path to something extraordinary.

One notable stop along the way was Batal, where there exists the Chacha Chachi Dhaba. Nestled amidst the rugged terrain, this humble roadside eatery offered a warm respite for weary travelers. Chacha Chachi, the affectionate names for the couple who run the dhaba, served hot and delicious food. Chacha's cheerful smile and Chachi's nurturing presence create an inviting atmosphere that instantly makes visitors feel at home. The simplicity of their hospitality and the flavors of the food created a delightful experience that touched both the heart and the palate.



Continuing the journey, we traversed the renowned Kunzum Pass, a gateway to the mesmerizing Spiti Valley. The pass, standing at an elevation of over 4,500 meters, greeted with panoramic vistas of towering peaks, snow-clad slopes, and endless stretches of untouched wilderness. It felt as if I had stepped into a world untouched by time, where nature reigned supreme and beauty knew no bounds. The vastness and solitude of the mountains created a space for reflection, allowing me to connect with the essence of nature and find peace in its grandeur. As the sun set, the sky introduced us to millions of stars on the way and we continued on our journey, eager to discover the treasures that awaited in Kaza, the gateway to Spiti Valley located 11,980 meters above the sea level.


Day 2: Kaza- Pin Valley- Tabo

Nestled amidst the captivating landscape of the Spiti Valley, Kaza unveiled beautiful experiences. Yoga with the rising sun and some quiet moments amidst the snow- capped mountains, sunshine and breeze energized me for the day. I was thrilled to see the solar powered mechanisms in the stay at 'Osel rooms'. 

Interestingly, I also got a chance to taste the sea buckthorn tea and local parantha at Taste of Spiti run by Ecosphere. After this, we picked up postcards adorned with stunning views of Kaza and its surrounding beauty to post them from Hikkim, the highest post office in the world. The walk around the town led us to the ancient Kaza monastery, where centuries-old traditions intertwine with the tranquility of the mountains.

Further, we headed for Pin Valley. The name "Pin" itself is derived from the local language, where "Pin" means "a place where water meets." Pin Valley, also known as 'The Land of Ibex and Snow Leopards,' is believed to have been inhabited since prehistoric times. Archaeological evidence suggests that early human settlements existed in the region, with ancient tools and artifacts discovered in various parts of the valley.


On the way filled with natural wonders, I realized how nature is an artist in her own right, adorning the mountains with her palette of colors, creating a masterpiece that spans the horizon. Yet, amidst their grandeur, the mountains humbly support life forms beneath, their biodiversity concealed but ever-present, nurturing the delicate ecosystems that thrive in their shadow. I was so intrigued and inspired by the green grass and hardy plants, resilient against the harsh conditions, rocks weathered by time and the elements, as they bear witness to the ages that have passed, and the vibrant yellow flowers that bloomed amidst barren landscapes, whose petals brought a splash of color to the rugged terrain. 


Journey to the Kungri Village in Pin Valley, had us in Monastery which served warm local food to everyone, and where the air was filled spiritual energy and the resonance of the traditional Thoma prayers. Amidst it all, on the way forward we passed through different villages of Pin and witnessed the toil and harvest of the farmers tending to their fields, nurturing peas and barley, their labor bringing sustenance to the community.

Further, we decided to route to Tabo, often referred to as the "Ajanta of the Himalayas," is renowned for its ancient and sacred monastery. While exploring the streets of Tabo, we couldn't resist indulging in the local delicacies that the village had to offer. Each bite offered a glimpse into the culinary traditions and local ingredients that are an integral part of the Spiti Valley's heritage.


Day 3: Gue- Tabo- Dhankar- Demul

We ventured into the hidden gems of Gue, a quaint village which unveiled stories that were fascinating and unique. It is a village known for its awe-inspiring self-mummified monks, left us in awe of the mysteries. The self-mummification process, practiced by certain Buddhist monks, involves a remarkable preservation of their bodies after death. The ancient tradition of self-mummification reflects the deep spiritual devotion and discipline of these revered monks. We also learned about the Indo-Tibetan Police Force, which plays a crucial role in maintaining peace and security in the region. Their presence and dedication ensure the safety of both locals and visitors, creating an atmosphere of tranquility.

As we went back to Tabo, I was struck by a small yet open and spacious school located in this village and couldn't resist visiting and interacting with the students there. As I engaged in conversations with these young individuals, I was captivated by their stories, dreams, and aspirations. Each student had a unique journey, a tale of resilience, determination, and the pursuit of knowledge. Despite the geographical and cultural differences, the students shared a common thirst for learning and a deep sense of ambition. Meeting these students was a reminder that dreams know no boundaries, and through education, we can empower ourselves.


Further, we explored the Tabo Monastery that is believed to be over a thousand years old, and stands as a testament to the rich cultural heritage of the region. We were captivated by the intricate mural paintings that adorned its walls. Each painting told a story, depicting various aspects of Buddhist philosophy and mythology. Its intricate murals, ancient scriptures, stupas, and statues served as a window into the rich cultural heritage of the region, offering insights into Tibetan Buddhism, its cultural history and significance in the present. Moreover, we also got a chance to explore the famous meditation caves of Tabo.



The next part of the day, took us on to Dhankar. The uphill trek from there was one of the most memorable ones for me. As we ascended, mesmerising views unfolded with every step, and the journey felt as beautiful as the destination. The warm golden sunshine, cold lake water, pebbles beneath the feet, snow-capped peaks, and the gentle touch of the wind, all of it made me feel united with mother nature. Those moments were of pure connection where I felt truly alive and aligned to my real self. 

Following the trek, we visited the famous Dhankar Monastery and the sunset point with the whole village view. After this, we were off to Demul, one of the remotest and most sustainable village in Spiti. We reached by the night and  truly enjoyed the local experience by living in homestays, cooking local food, hearing to the Spitian songs, and one-of-its-kind stargazing experience. The village served as a melting pot of diverse traditions, fostering a space where knowledge, ideas, and experiences were shared. This unique blend of cultures enriched our understanding of the world and opened our hearts to the beauty of diversity.

As our day drew to a close, I found ourselves dancing under the millions of stars that adorned the night sky. The brilliance of the celestial canvas above filled me with a profound sense of wonder. It was a magical experience that left an indelible mark on my heart.

Day 4: Demul- Komic- Hikkim- Langza- Kaza

Our time spent in Demul was an opportunity to forge deep connections with the locals. This morning, I decided to make a special treat for our host family. The family's delight and appreciation were truly heartwarming, and it felt like a small token of gratitude for their hospitality. As I explored around and interacted with the locals, I understood that Demul Village as whole was a shining example of sustainable initiatives. The villagers had implemented various eco-friendly practices, such as organic farming, compost toilets, water conservation, and renewable energy sources. It was inspiring to witness their dedication to preserving the natural environment while still maintaining their traditional way of life. Moreover, it was heartening to see the positive gender relations where the partners shared responsibilities of managing the household and income sources, and women were empowered and free to choose their roles.

Further, as we explored the surroundings, we encountered the yaks, a symbol of the region's rugged beauty. Further, we ventured out on a quest to find fossils and were fortunate enough to stumble upon some of these ancient remnants of the past. The experience was awe-inspiring, realizing that we were walking on the same land that had witnessed the passage of time and the evolution of life.

Continuing our journey, we made our way to Komic, highest village in the world located at an altitude of 4600 meters and visited the monasteries around it. Then, we reached the famous Hikkim post office, the world's highest post office. Excitedly, we penned heartfelt letters to our loved ones and posted them, hoping to share a piece of our incredible journey with our loved ones.



Further, we went to Langza, one of the remotest villages of India, located at an altitude of 14500ft (4420m). It  is also known as 'Fossil village', and has a 1000- year- old Buddha statue facing the snow- clad mountains. This statue is a symbol of spiritual devotion and serves as a reminder of the village's connection to Buddhism and its rich cultural heritage. In the midst of this serene setting, we got to explore the artistic wonders of pottery, a craft that has been passed down through generations and later, enjoy the flavors of home-cooked food from Demul.


On our way back to Kaza, we also had the opportunity of attending an 'Amchi session', where a traditional healer shared his knowledge and ancient wisdom of herbal medicine. It was a fascinating insight into their healing practices and the holistic approach they took towards well-being. We enjoyed our time in Sol Cafe, a volunteer- run cafe by Ecosphere which is a perfect spot for unwinding and contemplating on the essence of Spiti. Later, we explored the Kaza market, had warm Spitian dinner and then, I enjoyed the company of million of stars and multiple constellations.


Day 5: Kee- Chicham Bridge- Nako- Sarahan

In the morning, just as we were leaving Kaza, a profound sense of connection and belonging swept over me. It felt as if I was being called back, as if there was a deeper purpose awaiting my presence but the timing was not aligned. However, we further went to visit the Kee Monastery, an ancient Buddhist monastery perched on a hilltop. As we explored its intricate architecture and serene surroundings, I had the opportunity to engage in a meaningful conversation with a wise and humble monk. His insights into life, spirituality, and the monastery's teachings left a lasting impression, deepening our understanding of the monks' way of life.



In the vicinity of the monastery, I stumbled upon a small school where around 150 children received their education. The sight of the eager young minds pursuing knowledge amidst the peaceful ambiance of the monastery was both inspiring and heartwarming. The school played a crucial role in shaping their lives, instilling values of compassion, wisdom, and gratitude.



Our trip took an unexpected turn when we learned that the route to Chandrataal, the pristine moonlake we had eagerly anticipated visiting, was blocked for reasons beyond our control. It was a gentle reminder that the true essence of travel lies in uncertainty, adaptability and embracing the unknown. So, we were redirected towards Saharan. As we traversed through its route, we also crossed the beauty of Chicham bridge, Kinnaur and Nako comprised of clear valleys, glistening streams, and untouched meadows on the way. 


Although our journey took an unexpected detour, Saharan gifted us with a unique and enriching experience. Our journey was a reminder of the beauty that exists in every moment, and the power of embracing life with an open heart and an open mind. Later in the night after reaching Saharan, we walked under the starry night sky, being awestruck by the milky way and the glow of twinkling lights above us. I found solace in the embrace of the night, feeling connected to something greater than self.


Day 6: Sarahan- Shimla

Sarahan is truly a hidden gem nestled amidst the mountains. The views of Srikhand peaks, dense forests and apple orchards were serene. The town is also a home to the beautiful Bhima Kali Temple that stands as a cultural and spiritual heritage of the region. We witnessed the devotion and prayer that echoed through the temple halls. As we finally bid farewell to Sarahan, I carried with us the cherished memories, and a new direction for life.


Finally, we headed towards an Shimla which was an unexpectedly long journey. However, after reaching there, perhaps a series of synchronicities or an inner knowing whispered to me, indicating that that my time in this journey had reached its conclusion. To leave Shimla spontaneously also sparked a process of self-reflection and inner conflicts, but soon I realized that detachment played a crucial role in this process. Letting go of attachments to plans and outcomes allowed us to be open to the unfolding of life's journey. This experience will always remind me to choose authenticity over perfection, to listen to the whispers of our hearts and to be attuned to the signs that guide us along our unique paths in life. 

In retrospect my heart is filled with gratitude for all the imperfections, the uncharted paths, unexpected connections and the unpredictability of our journey, knowing that it was in these moments that I truly experienced the meaning and depth of life.




Comments

  1. AnonymousJune 23, 2023

    So beautifully expressed in words the whole journey

    ReplyDelete

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